Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon

Why it's on our shelf

Vaillon's soil has an unusually high iron content — it gives the Chardonnay a minerality you taste as texture rather than flavour. The 2015 is now 11 years old and built for it: still precise, still tensioned, with a developing spice character that only appears with age. 18 months on lees in stainless steel. Defaix's Vaillon has won Major at Tastevinage before. This one is quieter about it.

— Berthe & Moritz